A Beginner’s Guide to Clasps
By AJ Reardon
There has probably never been a better time to be new to beading. Beads are everywhere, and the market is practically flooded with books and magazines geared towards beginning beaders. Not to mention all of the classes available, and the fact that there’s even a TV show to teach you about jewelry making!
However, it seems as if many of the tutorials geared towards new beaders want to only teach you how to do a specific project, using very specific materials. In my experience, there’s a dearth of material on basic beading supplies and how to use them to make your own stuff. If you’ve noticed the same thing, or if you’re new to beading and not ready to buy lots of books and magazines, then this article is for you!
One question that I hear very often from new beaders is "What clasp should I use for this project?" While for many people (myself included) the clasp will be hidden under their hair and maybe not seem important, a good clasp can make a world of difference! The best clasp combines form with function, being at once attractive and secure.
When choosing a clasp, there are a couple of factors you should consider. First is what sort of piece you’re attaching it to. Some clasps are great for necklaces, but not so good for bracelets. Next is size. You want a clasp that will neither overwhelm nor be overwhelmed by your beads. Another important factor is security vs. ease of use. Some very secure clasps can be difficult to fasten.
Clasps come in a variety of materials, mostly metals. If you’re making jewelry up for sale, I recommend using sterling silver and/or gold-filled or vermeil clasps. Nickel, brass, and cheap plated clasps will all tarnish or loose their plating pretty quickly, leaving your jewelry looking quite dingy.
I’d like to cover the pros and cons of the most common clasp types... after that, we’ll discuss a few other useful findings.
First and foremost - never use a barrel clasp. This is a very common beginner’s mistake. When I was new to beading, I loved barrel clasps. They weren’t too expensive, they were easy enough to fasten, and they seemed quite secure. However, barrel clasps can untwist as they slide up and down your neck or arm, resulting in lost jewelry. Barrel clasps are also sometimes called "torpedo clasps".
Spring-ring clasps are something we’re probably all familiar with - they’re the typical clasp on a standard chain necklace. While they are inexpensive and rather secure, spring-rings can be difficult to fasten. They are also usually quite small, making them inappropriate for bulky necklaces.
Lobster claw clasps (also sometimes called trigger clasps) work similarly to spring-rings. They are more expensive, but easier to use because they have a larger "trigger" and a larger opening to slip the ring or tab into. Both lobsters and spring-rings are incredibly difficult to fasten by yourself on a bracelet... but lobsters are a good call for most necklaces and anklets.
Box clasps have a collapsible tab that slides into a box. They are easy to use, and often very attractive. They start out fairly secure, but over time and extensive wear, the tab can loose its springiness and have a looser fit in the box. Many box clasps have loops for multiple strands - and some fancier styles even have glass or semi-precious stones set in them. Box clasps work well for necklaces, bracelets, and watches.
Magnetic clasps are currently very popular, especially for those who have difficulty fastening more traditional clasps. They tend to be strong and secure, and very easy to fasten. Most are plain, but I have seen a few designed to look like fancy box clasps. There are a few drawbacks to magnetic clasps, however! First, they can interfere with pacemakers and patches. Second, because they are magnets, they can attach themselves to all manner of things - your fridge, perhaps, or a shopping cart. If you use a magnetic clasp on a bracelet, you should stretch a small "safety chain" between the two ends.
Hook-and-eye clasps come in a variety of styles, including the "s-hook" which attaches to a ring on either side. They are very good for necklaces, as the weight of the beads keeps the "eye" settled down on the hook. They are not quite as good for bracelets, as the weight doesn’t come into play as much - and also the hook can catch on things, such as loosely-woven sweaters, long hair, and spiral-bound notebooks. If you are good with wire, you can even make your own hook clasps.
Toggle clasps are another very popular option. They come in a wide variety of sizes and styles. Some even have gems set in them. Like a hook-and-eye, the weight of the necklace helps keep the toggle fastened. Unlike a hook and eye, it’s less prone to catching on things. Toggles are fairly easy to fasten and work well for necklaces and bracelets.
If you’re doing bead-weaving, you can also use a button-and-loop clasp. This is one of my personal favorites, as it tends to add a little more character than a normal clasp. Simply attach an appropriate button to one end of your piece, and a loop of seed beads just big enough to go around the button on the other end. Many bead stores offer vintage and modern glass buttons for sale, and your local craft or fabric store should have at least one aisle of buttons. These clasps work great for bracelets and chokers.
There are many other clasp options out there, including velcro, snaps, and the ball-and-socket clasp. However, since I’ve never played with any of those options, I can’t really write about how effective they are.
When the time comes to attach your clasp, you have a couple of options available to you. If you’re using thread, you can tie it directly to the clasp. If you’re using beading wire, you’ll probably want to crimp it. I recommend crimp tubes, as they’re stronger than the corrugated "crimp beads." If you can afford it, also get a pair of crimping pliers, as they’ll make a smoother, stronger crimp. You can just smash the tubes flat with a pair of chain-nose pliers, but that’s much less professional.
When using crimps, you can cover the exposed wire around the clasp with French wire, also known as bullion or gimp. This is a small coil of very fine wire. It gives a professional, finished look to the piece. Unfortunately, most French Wire is plated, and tarnishes rather quickly. As well, if you’re using thread, you must be very careful not to snag your thread on the end of the wire, or you will pull the coil apart.
You can also use clamshells (also known as bead tips). You can knot your wire inside the clamshell, or use the clamshell to cover a crimp. The clamshell will have a little hook to attach to the clasp. If you’re using thread, you can tie the thread around a little bead inside the shell.
I hope that this helps you pick out the perfect clasp for your projects! Good luck, and happy beading!
